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Harness combo with atc guide8/17/2023 ![]() There’s a lot to learn on the wall - knots, techniques, movement, etiquette - but there’s also a lot of gear involved. This is so much smoother, well only if you keep hold of the dead end of the rope.When you buy something through one of the links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Unlocking the guide on the extra tiny \"accessory cord\" loop on the bottom is safer because you don’t screw around with the amount friction the device gives you, all you doing is pulling the bottom rope away from the underneath the top rope. This often causes \"pasting\" this is when the second creams his pants form the sudden plummet you gave him because you did not put the friction hitch in place. When you do this it comes away from the belay device thereby giving you a belay device that has less friction to lower the second. However it is and can be just as simple to unlock both the devices when they are weighted!!! BUT when unlock the reverso you have to pull the biner that the ropes go around. When this happens it can be rather difficult to unlock the device by tipping the bottom up because the ropes get really jammed. The reverso does not have the tapered jaws so thinner ropes tend to pinch down next too each other especially with big boys like me at the end of the rope. one size fits all! Because of the tapering jaws in the guide the ropes are channelled down on top of each other causing them to bite in that same position. Not too much difference here but the guide does have a smoother action, which comes from its narrowing jaws, in the beginning I thought this was just a sales pitch. They actually noticed the top of the device getting eaten up the sandpaper effect. A friend from the states has also told me about some1 rapping on a wet and sandy rope. The rope runs over the thin metal plate at the top of the belay device wearing it away. Secondly on rapping: my reverso got WORN out after a year and a half of climbing and rapping. Now don’t come telling me about the reversino coz that’s for ice climbing ropes. ![]() With the guide there is virtually NO DIFFERENCE which is not the case with the blimin reverso where thin trad ropes fly through at a rate of knots. I have had the opportunity to work with both belay devices extensively, and believe me when I say that the guide beats the reverso HANDS DOWN!!! Especially for trad ropes (I had the reversino for a while too and found it too small for 9mm ropes!)Ībseiling: I rapped on a 11mm static and a 8.6mm dynamic (two separate raps). I am sure Ram Mountaneering could give you more details. ![]() As far as I understand niether of them can be attached to a weighted rope. I like my Reverso for trad and multi pitches, even with it's shortcommings, although for sport climbing the Gri Gri is the shizzer.īoth these devices can only be used in auto lock mode if you are belaying from above. I assume the BD ATC relieses in much the same way, but is a lot less complicated since you can used the little extra loop thing. This is all very complicated, but can get you out of a tight squeeze. This avouds the dodgy lower mentioned above. BUT BEFORE DOING THIS, secure the dead end of the rope to yourself using a \"Munter Hitch\" of other belay device, and control the lowering with this device/knot. then stand in it, using your body weight to unloc the device. Does this device work in practise?Īccording to the Petzel instructions the way to lower a hanging climber with a reverso is to put a sling into the \"main\" biner, as mentioned above, but thread it through another biner above the locked device. If you have climbed with a Reverso, you will know it is impossible to operate if it has auto-locked, because of the fallen climber, and the climber is unable to get his weight off the rope. So then, if you are able to change the angle of the belay device, whilst under load from the fallen climber, you should still be able to lower/belay the climber. In theory it makes perfect sense, since the device \"auto-locks\" because of the angle at which the climbing end of the rope stops the free end from slipping through the device (hope this makes sense). (I think you will only be able to do this on hanging-belay i.e. ![]() According to the manual, if you rig your belay correctly then you will be able to change the angle at which you operate the belay device. The extra little iron loop on the \"high-friction mode\" side of the device has been designed so that accessory cord can be fixed to it. The ATC-Guide does not work exactly the same as the Reverso! ![]()
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